Sunday, January 31, 2010

Affordable luxury

At least in Michigan, and probably nationwide, "affordable luxury" is a frequently-used phrase to describe what craft brewers offer and to explain why the craft beer industry is so successful, even during the "Great Recession."  (As a quick aside, we're hardly seeing the recovery here in Michigan, though we hear about it from the news media - we appear to be the "first in, last out" state when it comes to our entire economy falling apart.  That said, our wonderful craft brewers are doing well.)

"Affordable luxury" isn't a new phrase.  In fact, when I took Enterprise Organization in law school, we studied Starbucks Coffee Co., and Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz had used the phrase some time ago to describe what the company was selling.  It's an apt, useful phrase.  Applied to the beer industry, one might then wonder what the macros are selling: ultra-cheap banality?  But I digress.

Terrific craft beer is generally cheaper - often far cheaper - on a per-ounce basis than comparably fine wines, and it often pairs better with a wider variety of cuisines.  The other night, I indulged in a dinner of bar-b-que ribs, coleslaw, and potato salad, and the bottle of Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest Ale went really well with it.  There may be wines that would go well with this meal, but the fresh-hopped, copper-colored ale with a firm malt foundation and frothy, iceberg-like head was simply delicious, interplaying beautifully with the sweet-tangy-meaty flavor of the ribs, creamy-tart slaw, and the mustardy bite of the potato salad.  

Buying single beers is a nice way to build up a collection gradually.  Although you'll pay a small per-ounce premium for buying singles, it's a great way to try a lot of different brews and have on-hand a beer appropriate to any occasion or meal.  We're fortunate to have a number of stores that have a terrific selection of single brews, including Arbor Farms, Plum Market, and the Beer Depot on William between Fourth Ave. and Main Street.  The first two have the added bonus of being full-service grocery stores, so you can get all your shopping done.  From 22-oz. bombers to single 12-oz. bottles, I've had a lot of luck finding terrific beers and buying a couple at a time to build a collection.  

If you do start collecting beers, keep them somewhere cool and dark until you're ready to drink them, and keep them upright.  Higher ABV and barrel-aged beers will age best.  If you're living in a house, the basement may well be perfect for beer storage.  I just spent several hours clearing out a basement closet under our front porch that stays nice and cool and happens to have shelf space.  If you have somewhere to cellar your beer, you generally can serve it without further refrigeration and end up with a brew that's at ideal serving temperature.  The flavors and aromas will be at their fullest.  Bad beer needs to be ice cold to tamp down the nasty taste and smell and to numb your taste buds.  Of course, ice cold or not, who wants to serve bad beer?

A luxury is still just that, and sometimes we're in no position to indulge, even in something that's modestly priced.  But while collecting might slow considerably during hard times, building a collection just a bit at a time may still be possible, and a lot of beers stand up well to careful storage. 

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